Black Gold — Fact vs. Fiction
唐’t Let the “Black Gold”广告骗了你— This戒指已镀黑铑。
Clients frequently ask me if I can design jewelry for them made in 黑色 金. When I try to explain that 黑色 金 jewelry just isn’t a thing, they often send me advertisements from websites that offer it.
When a jewelry company advertises “black 金,” this should raise a red flag.
What Some Manufacturers 唐’t Want You to Know
Misleading Ads导致心怀不满的客户。
What many buyers don’t realize is that the “black 金” rings and pendants they see online are either CAD images or pictures of 金 rings plated with 黑色 rhodium. Sellers attract buyers with these eye-catching images and leave the “black rhodium plated” part in the fine print.
People Are Often Surprised When Their 黑金 Wears Off
Other sellers may be more transparent about their use of 黑色 rhodium, but they often do not mention how quickly the 电镀 will wear off.
Does this mean you should not buy 黑色 rhodium plated “black 金” jewelry? Not necessarily – but there are a few things you should keep in mind.
铑电镀–工艺及其持续时间
纯铑。这是一种出色的涂料。
镀铑 就像染头发一样。原来的头发颜色不变。头发仅覆盖有一层不同颜色的材料。同样，镀铑不会改变母材的颜色；它只是用不同颜色的金属覆盖。普通铑是白色的。
While a good pink temporary hair dye and a good rhodium 电镀 alike wish to be long-lasting, neither is permanent. Both will fade and will need to be recolored in order to maintain the desired look. In the case of rhodium 电镀, you also have scratches and scuffs to worry about, which will expose the 金 underneath.
根据几个因素，例如珠宝的佩戴频率，镀层的质量以及镀层的外观，您需要在6个月至2年的任何时间进行重新镀层。
黑色铑镀我的戒指要多少钱？部分或全部？
A 黑色 rhodium 电镀 will generally cost between $75.00 to $120.00. If you want to just 黑色 rhodium plate a portion of your ring it may actually cost more than 电镀 it in its entirety. This is because we have more prep time to mask off the portion of your ring to be left in its original natural color.
The ring above, is a rose 金 hand engraved wedding band with 黑色 rhodium on the center. It is an excellent example of why a little 黑色 goes a long way. 通过 leaving part of the ring in the original rose 金 the 黑色 area is much more interesting.
Another reason this partial 黑色 rhodium is better than total ring 黑色 rhodium 电镀 is because it can nestle nicely in the detailed recesses giving a longer lasting 黑色 detail. If this ring had a total 黑色 电镀 all over it, the shiny edges would have worn off much more quickly and not in a pleasing way.
黑铑，是或否？
玫瑰金戒指，部分黑色处理
A well-done 黑色 rhodium 电镀 can really make your jewelry “pop.”
如果看到“black 金” style online that you just love, find out if they can email you a picture or two of an actual finished ring. This will let you see 真实的东西 and not just the idealized CAD Computer Aided Design image. Their description should explain how they achieve the 黑色 look; check to see if it mentions 黑色 rhodium.
The 黑金 Claim is Getting More Mainstream. Unfortunately
If you love the look of 黑色 rhodium and understand its limitations, I say go ahead and get it! If you plan to order a 黑色 rhodium plated ring online, you should first make sure that there is a jeweler in your area who can re-plate it. That way you’能够保持其独特性’ look!
如果他们说不是，那还有什么’•镀了黑铑吗？
黑色PVD链带18kt玫瑰金
I recently saw this used bracelet with various chips and dings in the 黑色 links. We were unable to do anything to the 黑色 links except steam them as they were PVD coated. I discuss PVD coating in the post, 电镀与PVD涂层. It describes the differences and may help you make a choice if you are searching for a 黑色 or partly 黑色 look for your jewelry.
Other 黑色 details on jewelry besides 黑色 rhodium are oxidation and 黑色 enamel. See my blog:使用氧化，黑铑和黑珐琅制造黑色珠宝.
“So 黑金 Isn’t Real?”
镀黑铑的箭头
科学家最近发现了一种 method for turning nearly any metal 黑色, making 黑色 金 a reality! 通过 using a high-power laser to focus huge amounts of energy on a tiny spot of metal, researchers are able to create microstructures that capture nearly all light that falls on the metal, turning it pitch 黑色.
不幸的是，该过程需要非常昂贵的飞秒激光并需要大量电能。因此，不要指望很快会在珠宝制作中使用该技术！
飞秒激光技术价格下跌时，我们’ll have 黑色 金. But for now we have 黑色 rhodium and a couple other non-permanent techniques. If someone tries to sell you 黑色 金, it’s a fiction. If they try to sell you 黑色 rhodium plated 金 or platinum, it’s a fact!
黑铑珠宝商，
马蹄莲金
和往常一样，做得很好的马蹄莲！我还要指出，根据所使用的过程，“black”看起来更像是“gunmetal gray” rather than a true 黑色. True 黑色 can be accomplished, however, by oxidation, but only on a flat surface. I have a wonderful ring by a Turkish designer (during the Ottoman empire, much of the 金 jewelry was oxidized to make the stone “pop” — to use your word) that is made in 24 karat 金. It has a very wide shank leading to the flattened top; the top is oxidized to create a… 阅读更多»
Hello Antoinette, Thanks for your addition to the conversation about 黑色ening oxidation. In my years as a jeweler I have re-applied oxidation on rings. The secret to having it work is to have a recessed flat area that it is applied to. Oxidation is not applied to flat areas that are not protected by being recessed as it’d wear off quickly that way. Oxidation does give a deeper 黑色 than 黑色 rhodium. I write about oxidation, 黑色 rhodium and 黑色 enamel in this post: //www.chinabwo.com/custom-jewelry-design/the-kiss-of-night-for-your-jewelry-using-oxidation-black-rhodium-and-black-enamel/ I love that look you describe of the rose cut diamonds 流行音乐ping out of the… 阅读更多»
马蹄莲, thank you for your post. I would fall into the category of duped 黑色-gold buyers if you hadn’t shared this!
关于欺骗，还有其他金属要注意吗？我想确保始终购买“the real thing”!
你好亚历山德拉，
If you stick with 金 and platinum the noble metals that have been with us for so long you’ll be safe. The colors 金 can be alloyed in are green, rose, white and yellow.
I’m pleased that you’d like to stick to 真实的东西. Me too!
您的个人珠宝商，
马蹄莲
大多数人不’我们不知道那里有黑金，而且仅在东部山脉沿线的几个峡谷中发现。由于私人财产所有者的隐私要求，我不会指出更具体的位置。
这是非常罕见的，不是金，不是铑。它具有非常不同寻常的特性。
Dear 槊, Your High Sierra 黑色 金 is a fun unicorn of a thing to want to see. I look forward to seeing it someday or see a picture or reading an 文章 about it. But for now, real or not it is not available in the marketplace. So I do not want business people who sell jewelry to mislead the public buy calling something 黑色 金 which suggests that it will remain 黑色, when in fact it is plated or whatever they do to it and not permanent and in many places people can’t重新完成。… 阅读更多»
My friend bought a piece of 黑色 金 jewelry in Italy, is that also a 黑色 rhodium? She was told that Italy has the best 黑色 金.
亲爱的伊万，
据我所知’d be 黑色 rhodium over yellow or white 金. Alternate ways to get a 黑色 look is in my blog post here:
//www.chinabwo.com/custom-jewelry-design/the-kiss-of-night-for-your-jewelry-using-oxidation-black-rhodium-and-black-enamel/
The Italians are fantastic designers for jewelry and often quite leading edge on jewelry design techniques. At this time however 黑色 金 is not available as a permanent finish. They may guarantee it and have you send it back for re-finishing when it gets funny looking, but 黑色 金 is skin deep, and therefore not a permanent thing. And not true 黑色 金.
您的个人珠宝商，
马蹄莲
Thank you 马蹄莲, I really like the way 黑色 jewellery looks. What permanent 黑色 metal do you recomend to mount a precious stone on?
你好安倍
You might try 黑色 ceramic. It cannot be sized, but holds its 黑色 nicely.
您的个人珠宝商，
马蹄莲
What about 金-chromium-cobalt alloys? After extensive research I’ve found that the oxide produced with the variant 金-cobalt alloy after heat treatment is better than just a 电镀 because it penetrates the surface more. Granted, my ability to produce said alloy is limited, however I could share my detailed findings if you’对实验感兴趣。
嗨，安迪，
I am not expert on this alloy as I focus on 金 and platinum. Thank you for informing me of this possibility. Anything that’穿透表面会持续更长的时间。如果我有任何实验珠宝商的朋友对您的实验工作表示兴趣，’将您的联系信息传递给他们。感谢您的来信。
您的个人珠宝商，
马蹄莲
HI! My engagement ring is 黑色 金 how do I find someone to plate it? I’米在肯塔基州，采摘很苗条。
嗨，布鲁克，
It sounds like your ring is 黑色 rhodium plated. You’我可能需要邮寄将其电镀。我们做到了。
您的个人珠宝商，
马蹄莲
我邮寄并镀上这笔钱要花多少钱？
嗨，布鲁克，
这取决于您的戒指，但平均为$ 90.00。一世’会通过电子邮件将我的运输信息发送给您。
您的个人珠宝商，
马蹄莲
Thanks for all of the info! If I were to want a different look could I allow the 黑色 rhodium to wear off to reveal the underlying (white) 金? Is there a process necessary to remove the 电镀? Does the 电镀 do damage to the underlying 金?
亲爱的埃里卡，由于电镀是一种局部治疗，因此不会’t hurt the underlying 金. You can allow the 黑色 rhodium to wear off over time or ask a jeweler to polish your piece. Polishing will remove all the top surface 电镀. Only parts in recessed areas may stay. My favorite technique with 黑色 rhodium is to plate a piece that has engraving on it or some three dimensional texturing, and then lightly polish it to pull the 电镀 off the top surface, leaving the recessed part dark. The light and dark play well together and add depth to the piece.… 阅读更多»
wow 马蹄莲金 i can make 黑色gold how can you call your self a jeweller if you can not do this easy alloy of 金 and it dose not have rhodium in or on it this is the funny’我已经读了很长时间的东西，必须铸造，不能滚压，很难，我不会告诉你应该知道什么合金
Hello 塞缪尔, I love my commenting community on my blog. You seem to suggest that you personally use an alloy to create 黑色 金. Yet it is this big secret. I don’t know how my community will like your tease here that 黑色 金 is a real and castable thing. In my jewelry community we have discussed the rise in sales pitches for 黑色 金 online. These poor jewelers get people coming in who bought rings online and they arrived 黑色 and months later do not look 黑色 and they want the local jeweler to make it 黑色 again. These… 阅读更多»
ok so you need a hand well do you know what cobalt is and what colour it is yes its blue similar to platinum but a bit darker now what happens if you first melt the cobalt and add carbon to it what colour do you get then thats all i a willing to tell you but i have made 6 wedding bands which are 14k 黑色 金 and only one has come back because it snapped (p.s) there are a lot of different types of carbon have fun you may need help from a ex foundry worker to get… 阅读更多»
嗨，塞缪尔，
这些戒指可以定尺寸吗？一世 ’ve seen 黑色 cobalt, but they aren’我可以继续工作的戒指。没有见过这种类型的戒指，陪审团就对我来说。
马蹄莲
no you can not resize a ring it will micro crack or microfracture or if you get unlucky it will explode in to multple pieces if you try it has to be recast to size and you will have to add some more carbon for some will be lost in the melting process how do you not know this you will have to make more 黑色gold for the casting process so you can account for contraction
亲爱的塞缪尔，
你的提议不是真的“Black Gold”. It has serious limitations as a jewelry item. 浆纱 is an important benefit to a 金 or platinum ring and using cobalt eliminates that option.
I would suggest to you that if you have actually created a viable and usable 黑色 金 that you present a paper at the Santa Fe Symposium in New Mexico. The remainder of the industry would be very interested in your findings
您好迈克尔，谢谢您对塞缪尔的回复。的确，桑特菲研讨会是展示塞缪尔的好地方’的实验。其他珠宝商尝试使用有色金，例如用作镶嵌的紫金和史蒂文·克雷切默（Steven Kretchmer）’的蓝金。我完全同意，只要您不花钱就可以’我们已经删除了使黄金珠宝成为黄金的基本和必要部分。因此，它不是合法的黄金，而是各种各样的杂物。我想起了蒂芙尼’进入便宜一点的红色‘gold’与他们的Rubedo系列。里面有很多铜… 阅读更多»
我最近不得不回答有关客户的问题 ’s request for 黑金. I found your blog about 黑金 extremely helpful in explaining to this client that there is no 黑色 金 , but rather it is 金 which is plated. Thank you for providing your customers with so much educational material on all aspects of jewelry. 通过 making your customer’明智的做法是，您已确保他们的忠诚和尊重。很棒的马蹄莲。
迈克尔，你创造了我的一天。我的博客有助于回答您遇到的客户问题的想法很棒。给大约五个人这个答案后，我实际上写了它。它’重复自己的时间很浪费，所以我现在要说。一世’会寄给我我的网志来回答这个问题，然后我们’讨论您的项目。它对我来说效果很好，并节省了时间。真正的罪魁祸首’误解是决定上市的公司‘black 金’珠宝就是一件事情，它背后拥有一个不知情的营销部门的全部力量。当然，人们希望… 阅读更多»